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On the road for ... 1 year, 8 months and 14 days

 

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                Next stage : SPAIN - March 2008  

Current Position : Béni-Mellal, sky-diving in Morocco

On Mars 15th, 1997, after skydiving with friends on the Moulin Blanc beach in Brest, I took my bike "Magic. 24044kms and 333 days later, I came back to my starting point. The earth is actualy round and magnificient. But it is fragile tto. It is not dangerous, it's the unknown that implies fear. I was specially touched by the russian welcome all over this huge Siberia. This name means goulag and sadness for us in the west but it means a real pleasure for me.

9 years left for this trip but I never forget. There is life before and life after. Every time I see a globe, I wonder how it can be so small I can go round the world by bike.

Magic is impatient to set off again, it is now decided : we leave again on june, the 10th! It will  be ready, so I will. We are A nous les grands espaces, le vent, le soleil, la pluie, sans savoir le matin où nous serons le soir. We are going to ride on this planet without a sound, proud of our wanderer's way of life.

Jeudi 16 août 2007

I arrived yesterday afternoon in Lima in the fog (always foggy at this time of the year). Crossing the city was not so difficult despite the small busses which queue to pick up customers on the side. I’ve been hosted by Jerome and NaIMG-8627.JPGthalie in Miraflores in the South West of the city, great thank you to Celine!

 

Around yesterday night, the land started to shake and it became worse and frightening. With Nathalie and her 2 kids (Jerome was not back from work), we went out on the road and the earth tremor went on during more than 2 minutes. People started to freak out … everybody want to get home, the bus are overcrowded, big traffic jam. The IMG-8626.JPGepicenter is in the ocean 40 km deep and 60 km from the coast line, level 7.9 (Richter degree). Around 400 people were killed (a church fall down during the evening service) according to the newspaper but no one killed in Lima .

 

That evening we’ve celebrated my birthday! Thank you Jerome and Nathalie for this hearty welcome!

 

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Mardi 14 août 2007

The truth is not at the end of the Road but it is the road itself ….

 

 IMG-8545.JPG

The Panamericana is a long long road on 24000 km from Alaska to Ushuaia, following Western Coast of the ericas (north and South) with some incursions in the Cordillera. Since Bogota , I am often of this road and I like it despite some very rude landscape. It is 9 meters wide with roadsides that can be very good and sometimes that do not exist at all! Buses and trucks accept cyclists on their road between the 2 white lanes if there is nobody in front, otherwise you must go away… Rearview mirror is very useful. I rode several hours during the night to reach a town but I assume it is not reasonable!

 

Many various people met along this road: some walking hours, peIMG-8508.JPGnitent holding the cross, other cyclists (Martin and Wendy from Holland), trcusk which stop to let you go inside (forbidden by the internal rules!), small restaurants sometimes: Clémenté offered me the meal and I signed the Gold book reserved to Cyclists, Leon (81 yrs old) wanted to know everything about my trip and … keep my glasses! Lots of crosses on the roadsides to remind you that this road is full of dangers: beware sleeping and technical problems on vehicles after too many kms!

 

I am going to stay 2 days in Lima and before riding further south, I will take a few more Spanish lessons in a school!

 

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Jeudi 9 août 2007

Peruvians love parades, each town has its own "plaza de armas" and on Sunday morning, there are lots of parades (of army like social assistants…) on them!

 

 

Lucho Ramirez from Trujillo city is the Good Shepard of cycling; hundreds of cyclists from all origins have visited his place.

 

 

IMG-8467.JPGHe has a small dormitory above his bike workshop and globe-bikers (and their bikes too …) can have a rest there. Yves and Olivia gave me his contact; I called him without understanding a lot: he said something like "peligroso" (danger) in Paijan city on the road to Trujillo and advised me to be accompanied by the Police. I stopped at 50 km before Trujillo to buy some oranges, then I ask the name of the place to the lady: …. Paijan!!! Furthermore, she knows Lucho. Pablo, local cyclist, comes (simple coincidence?) with his Mountain bike and tells me he is going to ride with me till Trujillo . Ok, we start biking, still with this strong front wind. After 20 km, I suggest Pablo to swap our machines. His bike is terrible, it is difficult for him! Pablo is so happy now with Magic riding very fast and soon I can not see him anymore although I told him to wait a bit for me!

 

 

Panic ! May be it is a set-up! I know this guy only for an hour and I have only my clothes and this damned bike! Congratulations Poupou! And you are the one that suggested giving him your bike! Poor Magic! Hopefully I took a picture of him, i twill be useful for the Police, but the camera is also with Magic and him! Arrgggh !

 

 

I am pedaling desperately like an automate and soon something on the Horizon Miracle! This is Pablo waiting for me with smiles, "Magic, super bicicletta", “Me, my body is really painful because of your bike, I am getting back my bike” I answer to him with some Spanish gesture”IMG-8439.JPG

 

 

In fact, Lucho is not at home now, his wife Aracelly is telling me that he is in Lima till Sunday but I am more than welcomed in their place! In the mean time, Pablo is returning to Paijan with his bike on the bus roof.

 

 

Your opinion about my new Peruvian cap? Cute, isn’t it? Price? 6 soles= 1.7 Euro. As you can notice on pictures, it is getting cold here as much as I ride further south. In fact, who said once: "Our lives are full of misfortunes that have never happened”?

 

 

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Samedi 4 août 2007

When the moon separated from the Earth, she forgot to bring Sechura Desert with!  Small size (like Brittany ) but big empty space! In the North, no “corons” (sorry Pierre Bachelet!) but petrol sources and no plants, no herbs, only very dry floor. A few people try to survive here but in very difficult conditions.

 

A few cities too like Tularat with its air base equipped with old Sukhoy 17 aircrafts ans its Redemptor Christ which is dominating the whole city: it is the kingdom of Wind with plastic bags hung to leaf-less trees and electric cables.
IMG-8320.JPGI had 3 ways to bike across: East, West or Middle> I chose the middle, 250 km of huge loneliness with very strong front wind. I was told (even by Lauda, the young American who was giving lessons of environmental protection (thank you
) “There is nothing there, no eating places, no houses, nothing… » in fact yes, a few restaurants hidden in cabins and I even managed to sleep there!  Wind from South is present every day and I am starting being fed up with it. Climbing mountains, it is not easy but at least, you receive your award when you reach the top: clouds, spectacular scenery, the long downhill afterwards…. But fighting against the wind, it is very hard mentally and hearing the wind blowing is very tiring. Sometimes, I go bak in the opposite direction to realize how fun it would be if the Wind was blowing from the NorthIMG-8380.JPG
I have adopted the "Contador" posture with elbows on the handlebar bag, I increase speed with  3 -4 km/h but more muscle soreness. It will last about 2 months like this, I was told! August and September, I have to ride along the
Pacific Ocean during 1000 km more; tonight I am at a distance of 800 km before Lima .

 

Ah! Yes we have already done 30000 km and Magic is still in a very good shape!  2 days ago, I met Matheus, a Brazilian who is WALKING ACCROSS South America ! With a 25 kg-bag and a banner! Thanks to him, I forgot the front wind during a few hours!

 

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Lundi 30 juillet 2007

 

Position tonight: 03.34.04 S and 080.27.32W, taken just before Tumbes in Peru. I felt the trap at that border, I was right! is a bit messy country. At the border after , guards did even not take a look at my passport and while exiting , I did not see the border office hidden behind a tent. Thus, of course, at Peruvian border:
 "Where do you come from?"
 "From
!"
 "It is not mentioned on your passport! , you must go back to
". I ride back inside Huaquillas (and its epidemic malaria) to go back to the other side of the border. Then, on side:
"Where do you come from?" (he had seen me arriving...)
"From Peru"
"Where do you want to go?" 
"To Peru!"
"Where were you just before?"

"In Colombia"
"It is not mentioned on your passport! , you must go back to
, you are in illegal situation".
I show him my map with dates of stages: “I have biked across
, once with this bike, doing it 2 more time sis too much!" He laughs, I won, he validates my exist on my passport

PS: I have included pictures of my hotel room with balcony view to give you a feeling of the comfort I have had and then a picture of the dormitory … for ever: disposal of beds looks like navy battle game - C2? Sunk!!!  

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