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On the road for ... 1 year, 8 months and 14 days

 

Clic the Planet to see my trip!


                Next stage : SPAIN - March 2008  

Current Position : Béni-Mellal, sky-diving in Morocco

On Mars 15th, 1997, after skydiving with friends on the Moulin Blanc beach in Brest, I took my bike "Magic. 24044kms and 333 days later, I came back to my starting point. The earth is actualy round and magnificient. But it is fragile tto. It is not dangerous, it's the unknown that implies fear. I was specially touched by the russian welcome all over this huge Siberia. This name means goulag and sadness for us in the west but it means a real pleasure for me.

9 years left for this trip but I never forget. There is life before and life after. Every time I see a globe, I wonder how it can be so small I can go round the world by bike.

Magic is impatient to set off again, it is now decided : we leave again on june, the 10th! It will  be ready, so I will. We are A nous les grands espaces, le vent, le soleil, la pluie, sans savoir le matin où nous serons le soir. We are going to ride on this planet without a sound, proud of our wanderer's way of life.

Mercredi 12 septembre 2007

Union is power, that is true for cycling as well ! Since the 1st day on the crazy road, I met Yukito et we cycled together, we met Marcos a bit later “the tall Swiss guy” who joined our international team. Medium age: (22+37+61) /3=40! The best age for this type of leisure ! Nothing resisted to us and we arrived in Cusco within 2 days: 1200 km from Lima , including 550 km of flat road.

 

The numerous Japanese I met were nice, smiling, shy, not experienced. Yukito is all this together except shy. Only 22 years old, always giving fun! He arrived in Equator 2 months ago with a simple back bag, he wanted to discover countries where one works to live and not the contrary!”. He purchased a bicycle 250 euros and 2 bags he put behind. He learnt Spanish in a school during one month and started to cycle without GPS, maps and any equipment! Amazing Yukito !

 

Our trip in the middles of Andes was quite difficult with several heights between 2000 and 4000 meters, the down hills were very tiring … but we’ve enjoyed the villages in the middle of nowhere with pigs, horses, sheep …. 2 gringos (the white) and a chino (anyone Asian is Chinese here!). At night, we’ve been caught by the night and we had to walk during 4 hours towards a city which was never there … the road was too dangerous with our weak lights. The Andes were still here huge as always. Nothing is easy in this chaos closed to the void without any protection. A few times, we passed by a few Incas ruins but we were not so interested. We were 100% living fully the present and we were more interested to meet people in the villages …

 

Par flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Mardi 4 septembre 2007

Ayacucho, 140 000 inhabitants, 2750 meters, churches everywhere, in the middle of Andes (in the middle of ). The area is difficult to access and has kept its charm and natural. It used to be the fief of fighters, they are quieter now.

 

 

IMG-8799.JPGThe Andes demonstrate majesty and a power I’ve never experienced before. Our Alps are beautiful, thinner probably … but smaller by ½. Here everything is hug, what brought men (roads, houses, trucks ….) look like small models put in the décor. I stop, I admire and shout “Is there anyone ?”…Only the echo.

 

An the people there? It’s a mix of Inca, Spanish and black. You mix everything and the result is people a bit shy but warm, you don’t laugh for nothing, you don’t talk for nothing, probably to save oxygen!

 

Women wear skirts with many layers made of wood.  They always carry something on their back, often the last kid who seems happy. The family Fernande has a small restaurant in the middle of nowhere on the “Carratera Centrale”. We got on well strait away and I decided to stay on extra day. I’ve improved my Spanish and my knowledge on .

 

After 500 km on a nice road from Lima , it’s now a road of stones. 160 km before Ayacucho not easy but it’s nothing compared with the 400 km of the difficult way (Yves Chaloin who went on this road a few years ago) …. Next week will be certainly very tough with heights of 4500 meters and downhill of 2000 …

IMG-8888.JPG

Par flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Mardi 28 août 2007

Last Saturday, I left Lima under a dark and dirty fog, since a paint manufacturing unit had been on fire since 1 am in the North of the city with flames over 100 meters high, no more GPS reception. Direction, La Oroya, 190 km further South inside Cordillera, via the climbing of "El Ticlio" pass, 4818 meters high. After a few days rest, I fear this stage is going to be difficult, I give to myself 3 days. First nIMG-8689.JPGight at Cocachacra after 78km and 1400 meters high in the « hostal » owned by Silva Ramirez whole bended after so many years and who never stops curing her guinea pigs, chickens, vegetables. I am so exhausted that I start cleaning my bike. Second night at San Mateo, 3300 meters high, I felt better than yesterday and there is only 36 km now to the top., I leave early in the morning for the last day, it is not so bad till 4200 meters. Erwan calls me (Congratulations to Movistar!!!) to tell me he has just finished climbing ding with same speed!

Afterwards, I start feeling lack and rarity of oxygen, I am really wondering if I will be able to do it. The Oroya - Lima train has just derailed during the night (no link with my story!), some young Peruvians work in the area to load trucks with stones and run everywhere with their wheelbarrows. In a curve, I can see 23 small graves with crosses, all dead in the ravine on November 1, 1996. And suddenly, whereas I really suffer, I see 2 lamas who seem to wait for me! Salutations, pictures and they leave further up; it gives me some extra energy. I need to stop frequently to catch my breath, head is humming and I am nearly vomiting. The last hooks seem to never end, just a picture at the top because it is very cold at 4818 meters and I cover myself with lots of stuffs for 40km downhill to La Oroya.

Here I am on Cordillera’s alti-plateau, probably 20 days required to reach Cusco and Machu- Picchu riding always between 3000 and 4800 meters on roads without tarmac, if it is too difficult, I’ll see!  I am here to feel Incas’ spirit on their Land, not for a sport performance of a sixty years old guy!

Francois Leberre from Kermat en Guiclan is the 40000th visitor on the website and won a Magic made of chocolate! Congratulations!

 

 

 

Par brice - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Vendredi 24 août 2007

IMG-8663.JPGMy intensive Spanish course is completed in Lima and I will continue my way tomorrow morning. Quite happy of the results, I can have a short discussion and it will able me to improve on the way. It was strange for me to have a sedentary life suddenly: same way every day, 6 hours of courses per day, it was “metro-boulot-dodo”. (train-work-sleep)

 

Lima is a nice city which does not deserve its bad reputation of being extremely dangerous, the only problem is that during 6 months you can’t see the sun: there is this thick smog and the weekend one can go and look for the sun in the hills. Last night, it rained outside … and in my bedroom ! the roof has been cracked by the earthquake.

 

I’m looking forward to go in the cordillera, to see the blue sky and the sun. The road toward Cusco and Machu Pichu is amazing, the first mountain is 130 km away from Lima (4850 meters high). I’ve never been so high on earth. I think I’m going to have  a hard time after 10 days at the level of the sea. The Peruvians tell me “ Muy muy muy frio” and my polar has been sent back to Brest , but here I will find a solution.IMG-8652.JPG

 

has sent 150000 euros to help after the earthquake, that’s 0.33 euro per capita, I feel ashamed …

 

Par flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Dimanche 19 août 2007

The pigeons sing again in the parks of Lima , that is the sign that the calm has come back under earth. The birds left the city 5 hours before the seism. The condors were flying in the sky to gather before going to the Andes . There have been small tremors the 2 following days. In the South, it’s terrible. Jerome who prepares a thesis on humanitarian logistics is in Pisco. The city has been destroyed by 70%, it’s cold, not water, no means of communication, looting to survive, the police has too much to do, total disorganization. Some villages have not been rescued at all …

 

Par Flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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my trip

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