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On the road for ... 1 year, 8 months and 14 days

 

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                Next stage : SPAIN - March 2008  

Current Position : Béni-Mellal, sky-diving in Morocco

On Mars 15th, 1997, after skydiving with friends on the Moulin Blanc beach in Brest, I took my bike "Magic. 24044kms and 333 days later, I came back to my starting point. The earth is actualy round and magnificient. But it is fragile tto. It is not dangerous, it's the unknown that implies fear. I was specially touched by the russian welcome all over this huge Siberia. This name means goulag and sadness for us in the west but it means a real pleasure for me.

9 years left for this trip but I never forget. There is life before and life after. Every time I see a globe, I wonder how it can be so small I can go round the world by bike.

Magic is impatient to set off again, it is now decided : we leave again on june, the 10th! It will  be ready, so I will. We are A nous les grands espaces, le vent, le soleil, la pluie, sans savoir le matin où nous serons le soir. We are going to ride on this planet without a sound, proud of our wanderer's way of life.

Vendredi 12 octobre 2007

Yesterday night I reached San Pedro De Atacama, a village like "oasis" with 5000 inhabitants in the middle of desert with same name, after 110 km without any village since Calama.
San Pedro has probably the biggest density of backpackers and tourist agencies in whole
(to compare with Puntas Arenas further south) but village has kept some attractiveness by forbidding any modern building. All constructions are here on one single level and made of “adobe” (dry mud). Here is the starting point of all tours to Desert and so close !
I’ve met a strange Chilean with its non-ordinary machine: Max Irwin (Chilean) made 2 bikes in 1 and came with a proof of concept with 3 tires.

 

IMG-9723.JPGI tried it and had the confirmation that people can ride around the world with everything that has 2 tires provided they want really to do it. Max can also be useful as a hallstand : he wears not less than 5 jackets on him without the sleeves he cut!
Tomorrow I am leaving to
, 500 km to Salta City including 250 km without anything except a 4500 meters high pass. I will need to “pay cash” my way out from Andes and here it is really high and strong heat!

 

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Mercredi 10 octobre 2007

South West of Bolivia is really the end of the world! A week out of time, no more paved (asfalto) roads but only unperfected (ripio) tracks that have destroyed me… It was Gobi desert with Bolivian touch: IMG-9670.JPGvery long sections with this damned corrugated iron which gives «hoqhoqhoquet» and sections with sand hopefully not too long where I had to push the bike. Very dry mountains with “salars” and volcanoes (some of them are hiding to smoke), I’ve seen them and I have the names, as Coluche would say. And last but not least, NOBODY except my friends the LAMAS, still very strange for me! Lots of lost villages without anybody inside because men have left to work in copper mines in . However, I did not have any difficulties to get some food and my new stove has been very useful!
Uyuni’s salar I’ve crossed from North to South on October 5, was a very nice experience and I have still the stigmata of it: the whole skin which was not protected by clothes has been burnt by glare and I have even been burnt inside the nose. The biggest salted lake in the world (12000 square kms), 3667 meters high, flat like a Briton crepe and so white with a few “islands” where giant cactus grows. None of these islands were indicated on my GPS and I was lost during a “short” period of time… Around
, a warm and very violent wind started to blow, I was toIMG-9613.JPGld to go in the direction of the extremity of a mountain in South East, but even after some strong pedaling, mountains were still not there!
Night came, I had to camp. I had my stone to push pickets in but it was impossible because sand floor was like hard concrete. I had a beer as well, I’ve drunk it very slowly while watching the stars and I told to myself “Boy, you need now to ride the whole night” I rode back and I could see lights far in the horizon: 5km or 30km? Impossible to know... After an hour, salt started cracking and Magic was a bit scared. I had its message: we needed to stop before any damage. Building the tent required huge effort and I ve nearly lost it! At
, sun rise on “salar”; a new day could start!
I’ve been through Chilean Border 2 days ago and I could find some asfalto again, finally! And exaggerated prices for such an occidental country, compared to – 3 or 4 times more. This morning, I’ve been very close to the biggest copper mine in the world (again!) , a hole 4.5 km X 2.5 km and 850 meters deep. Already 10 billion tons got rid of. In Calama’s city center, there is a copper statue representing a blue collar with his hammer.

 

Sorry but pictures from the album can not be transmitted right now, only my face!
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Lundi 1 octobre 2007

« Coca yes, cocaine no ! » that’s the main idea of Evo Morales, the current president “andinos” of . A discreet guy, he’s not as loud as his good friend Hugo Chavez ( president) and Fidel Castro but he knows what he wants. 4 days ago, he invited Ahmadinejad, the Iranian president in La Paz to have a discussion on nuclear energy, amazing action in front of the states! I’ve seen the convoy passing by quickly in the streets but didn’t get a chance to get a glimpse of the sad face of Mahmund …  480px-Morales-20060113-02.jpgLet’s talk about the “coca”. is a huge producer of coca and many farmers of Andes live from on these crops. But with these leaves, on can make cocaine and this drug poison American people! What to do? The decided: let’s remove the crops of cocaine from producers countries, including . People from the come here and convince farmer to change cultures into others from which it’s harder to live… Evo Morales doesn’t agree, for him the coca is an heritage of their culture and most Bolivians (even the tourists) chew coca, it’s very good to fight the cold and when you’re tired …Thus Morales has decided to fire these American controllers and to legalize these productions. There shall be retaliatory measures from the …. Let’s see what happens …
 I met many American backpackers: animated discussions! One of them mentioned: Al Gore will be the next president with Hilary as a Vice President, as Al Gore used to be the Vice President of Bill. A defender of the environment handling the
… some doubts …? 230 km within 2 days at 3800 meters high (thanks to the coco), I’m getting closer to SALAR DE UYUNI.

 

 

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Mercredi 26 septembre 2007

IMG-9359.JPGYesterday morning, I passed across the border between and , 5 minutes for paperwork with smile, if only all continents were like South America ! is twice the size of with only 9 millions inhabitants; it is the highest, most isolated, poorest and coldest country of Latin America .

 

Just after, 115km on Altiplano at 3800 meters high to reach La Paz , with Cordillera covered with snow on the left and wind on the back!

 

First contact with La Paz will probably be the greatest arrival inside a capital city of my whole trip.

IMG-9383.JPGMy GPS indicated downtown at 1.8 km and I still could not see anything except a flat suburb with red stones. Suddenly after toll station, a punch on my face: the city appears entirely with mountains all around and houses on them, an unforgettable image, I stopped magic and we stayed in admiration a long time without moving

 

If we only believed in what we hear or read, la Paz would be full of fake policemen and real pickpockets but in reality it gives me more the impression of a friendly city with small merchants everywhere.

 

Tomorrow, the most dangerous road in the world with ravines and breathtaking turns, what a country!

 

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Dimanche 23 septembre 2007

IMG-9220.JPGAmazing, almost 400 km totally flat between Cusco and Titicaca lake.It is the ALTIPLANO at 4000 meters high! The air density is 2 times weaker than at the sea level. We can feel the air is not so resistant, a pity the long down hill was at night, other wise it would have been a good opportunity to reach 100 square meters? A lot of animals on the road, often women are taking care of them. The sky is amazing, nights are very cold like the water in the hotels of 2 euros per night. Yves and Olivia are godfather and godmother of Luz, a little girl of 15 years old, I went to her family to say hello, in the city of Checupe

 

 

I am in Puno since yesterday, the harbor on the lake of Titicaca : what a funny names for kids in ! Titicaca in the Quechua language means “puma made of stone”, not enough to laugh about …. Livio ? It is the lake the highest in the world, at  3800 meters, 230 km long and 100 km large and it separates and . The people Uros lives on the small islands which are floating on the lake, they are their boats and their house. IMG-9291.JPG

 

 

 

 

I am feeling regarding my left eye, I’ve seen a ophtalmologist who told me it is quite common with this dry weather. It should get better soon …

 

 

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