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On the road for ... 1 year, 8 months and 14 days

 

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                Next stage : SPAIN - March 2008  

Current Position : Béni-Mellal, sky-diving in Morocco

On Mars 15th, 1997, after skydiving with friends on the Moulin Blanc beach in Brest, I took my bike "Magic. 24044kms and 333 days later, I came back to my starting point. The earth is actualy round and magnificient. But it is fragile tto. It is not dangerous, it's the unknown that implies fear. I was specially touched by the russian welcome all over this huge Siberia. This name means goulag and sadness for us in the west but it means a real pleasure for me.

9 years left for this trip but I never forget. There is life before and life after. Every time I see a globe, I wonder how it can be so small I can go round the world by bike.

Magic is impatient to set off again, it is now decided : we leave again on june, the 10th! It will  be ready, so I will. We are A nous les grands espaces, le vent, le soleil, la pluie, sans savoir le matin où nous serons le soir. We are going to ride on this planet without a sound, proud of our wanderer's way of life.

Vendredi 7 décembre 2007
IMG-0550.JPG

Leaving Rio was quite a challenge, with a bridge of 14 km (forbidden for bikes). I had no choice but to go through as it was the only to cross the bay. Hopefully a security care stopped me and drove at the end of the bridge, in the city on the other side. The road is long toward Recife but there is everything you need along the road: small restaurants, fresh fruit juices and sometimes a beach to take a bath. I wear a local shirt … Ronaldinho’s sport shirt. 

 

The Brazilian drivers behave like Ayrton Senna and love to be behind 3 to 4 trucks. These are road-trains and they move a lot of air !

 

Christmas is coming soon and most Brazilians (except those living in favelas) will go for holidays on the coast along the Atlantic ocean . Strange to see these Christmas trees in the middle of coconut trees with a temperature of 35 degrees in the shadow. 

 

2 days ago, a cyclist came closed to me with a professional speed. We discussed about the world championship in last August. After 2km I realize he had only one leg … the left one.. the other one has been taken by a truck whose driver got asleep … 11 years ago. He invited me in his place and offer a blue sport shirt of which I well. What will miss to the next cyclist I will meet ?IMG-0558.JPG

 

 

Par Flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Vendredi 30 novembre 2007

First of all, big thanks to Jean-Pierre and Elizabeth for this dinner at my arrival. JPB will come back with my camera, 400 g useless weight.

 

After a first disappointed contact with Copacabana which is only La Baule power 10, I’ve discovered with Magic the real face of Today’s Rio ; 70 km through a huge city with so much diversity!  Sea, beaches, mountain, jungle, a base-jumper Christ, very nice buildings and great favellas!

 

I was told not to go to Coschina (the biggest favella in Rio ) alone and to hire a guide; I’ve taken Magic as mIMG-0412.JPGy bodyguard. I was telling myself while climbing 15% narrow streets I would love to live in a favella (so stupid this Poupou!). There is a very particular atmosphere full of good mood and spontaneity, lots of people who do small jobs, people cry, move, laugh, and argue each other! I could have stopped 20 times to tell my story and to be taken on pictures. I did not have at all the feeling of poverty like in for example.  Of course life is not wonderful and lots of people might suffer behind those dirty walls but solidarity is probably very strong here and people believe in a future. Now streets are made nice because President Lula is coming in Rio for Carnival: will there be an award for the nicest favella?

 

Then, I had to climb at 700 meters high to see Redemptory Christ. I met Andrea, carioca VTT rider and good climber, from the beginning of the climb; we did the whole climb together. During the whole climb, we can only see the back of the Christ and it is quite puzzling to see finally his face when you reach the bottom of the statue. He is so huge: 30 meIMG-0444.JPGters high and 28 meters wide. When we see his face, we do not think anymore of a base-jumper, he is watching the city with lots of compassion and tenderness and seems to say : No worries, I am looking after you !

 

Tomorrow, I will go further north, towards Salvador de Bahia then Recife . Color of faces will become black; 3.6 millions of African slaves have been brought in those harbors in very difficult conditions, their descendants are still there.         

 

Par brice - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Jeudi 29 novembre 2007

400 km through condor road and 600 km through earthling road stand between these 2 little villages of 20 and 12 millions inhabitants. Going out Sampa was more difficult than the way in. I was in similar situation as when I tried to go out Teheran: an access road to Rio with an exit on the left (thus by speed roads), and thus obligation to ride across a couple of lines through crazy and noisy traffic! Half anIMG-0312.JPG hour to wait for a quiet moment looking for Promise Earth on the other side, with heart beating a lot. In that kind of moment, you would love to be Bobsleigh Champions to manage to do it in 3 seconds, you tell yourself it is too stupid to put your life at risk and you want to give it up. And then suddenly a 300 meters « hole » in the traffic and without thinking a second, you go ahead in front of trucks tooting. Once on the other side, your nerves crack.

 

After 130 km through an endless industrial zone (Leroy Merlin, Novotel, Mercure, Citroën, MacDo...) and a very tough traffic, I’ve taken a shortcut to Atlantic Coast after 100 km inside what used to be a very dense jungle. They have deforested a lot for cultivation and farming, now ecology is recovering more and more. Big and tall savage animals (Panther, Puma...) are lonely travelers who need large spaces. IMG-0358.JPGPeople try to keep large corridors between jungle territories.

 

I managed to save a strange animal with a very friendly face; I do not even know its name. It was moving forward very slowly and it was close to be knocked over. Everybody stopped to take a picture and it took a nice pause! My camera broke down again after heavy rain before reaching Rio fed up with Canon brand! I bought another one, more simple (for the next one, I will send you the bill) and you know what? It is another Canon, of course (Power Shot A550), and it broke down after only half an hour of usage, we laughed a lot in the shop!

 

Par brice - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Jeudi 22 novembre 2007

IMG-0233.JPGWhile riding further north from Curitiba , I’ve met progressively . Banana and coconut trees replaced maze and soja fields, colors have become more matt, people more spontaneous and I’ve finally seen young boys playing football. Arrival in Sao Paulo was more "tranquillos" compared to crazy Istanbul or Tehran for example.

I did not have the feeling to arrive in a city with 20 millions inhabitants; traffic became really huge only 20 km before city center and driving was pretty safe. Cars are often riding too close and I am very IMG-0300.JPGhappy to have a bag in the back to protect my left leg... Because it is hot, glasses were put down and people are talking each other at red lights: Where do you come from? Where do you go? Are you Italian? (or American, German … but never French!).

Sao Paulo ("Sampa" for people here) is called also Tropical New-York. It is true that we can find same atmosphere in the 2 cities: various races mixed each other, districts with different origins (black, Arab, Chinese, Italian, Indian …). And people feel good, whatever their color! Even if a wheeling chair, people say “Deus é bom!" (God is good!) .
IMG-0257.JPGWaves of immigrants have come from everywhere, city had only 600000 inhabitants in 1920, thus 30 times less than today! A special hotel at arrival could welcome up to 10000 people. Tomorrow, I ride to
Rio De Janeiro , only 450 km by coastal road; I’ve not seen yet Atlantic Coast ! I might be there in 5 or 6 days.
For info, below the list of biggest cities in the world included in blue those which I’ve been through with Magic during my 2 world tours!

 

 

 

City name

 

 

 

 


Population
(in millions)

 

 1. Tokyo

 

 

 

34.2

 2. Mexico City

 

 

 

22.8

 3. Seoul

 

 

 

 

22.3

 4. New York

 

 

 

 

 

21.9

 

 

 5. Sao Paulo

 

 

 

20.2

 

 6. Bombay

 

 

 

 

19.9

 

 7. Delhi

 

 

 

 

19.7

 

 8. Shanghai

 

 

 

 

 

18.2

 

 

 9. Los Angeles

 

 

 

18.0

 

 10. Osaka

 

 

 

 

16.8

 

 11. Jakarta

 

 

 

16.5

 

 12. Calcutta

 

 

 

15.7

 

 13. Cairo

 

 

 

 

15.6

 

 14. Manila

 

 

 

15.0

 

 15. Karachi

 

 

 

14.3

 

 16. Moscow

 

 

 

13.8

 17. Buenos Aires

 

 

 

13.5

 18. Dhaka

 

 

 

 

 

13.3

 19. Rio de Janeiro

 

 

 

 

12.2

 

 20. Beijing

 

 

 

12.1

 

 

 21. London

 

 

 

 

12.0

 

 22. Tehran

 

 

 

11.9

 

 23. Istanbul

 

 

 

 

11.5

 

 24. Lagos

 

 

 

 

11.1

 

 25. Shenzhen

 

 

 

 

10.7

 

 26. Paris

 

 

 

 

10.0

 

Par brice - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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Samedi 17 novembre 2007

IMG-0129.JPGI have just arrived in Curitiba 90 km from the Atlantic coasts, I can’t see the ocean yet but I can already feel the fresh and humid wind coming from the East. I didn’t get use so well with the Brazilians at the beginning … they looked a bit distant, speedy and shut-in, introverted … These people were supposed to be the king of the fiesta ? where is the button to make them start ?

 

But in fact, I was not acting well either, I couldn’t figure out anymore in which country I was, didn’t make any effort to speak Portuguese and I had my face of bad days … now it’s better on both sides …

 

The car glasses tinted in black still annoy me, I can’t see anybody on the road and I feel like in video game, quite stressful in the curbs …. Sometimes, I make a “hello” anyway and I imagine un nice gesture responding! The Indians guaranis don’t hide themselves and it’s a party to meet them!

 

Yesterday I’vIMG-0172.JPGe met an amazing guy. Mario Calle is a Columbian and lives in Bogota . He was in the Columbian army and became paraplegic, victim of the guerilla. He then decided to travel around the world on a engine adapted to his new shape: he uses his arms to pedal and he has a small engine to help him climbing the heights. Nothing stops him, his speed is around 300 km per day, and he builds his tent and walk around on his hands with a great agility! He was fed up with the Brazilians as well (aie, aie !!) by two bad guys and of course he couldn’t run after them …. We had a cup of coffee together by the road to cheer us up.

 

Curitiba is an amazing modern city as far as architecture, pictures in a next article … I am from 400 km of Sao Paulo and will cycle along the ocean 50 km away from the coast.IMG-0176.JPG

 

Par Flo - Publié dans : unautretour-en
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